How to Waterproof Any Pair of Shoes

Wet shoes are uncomfortable, damage leather, promote bacterial growth, and destroy suede. Factory waterproofing wears off within 6 to 12 months on most shoes. Here is how to reapply waterproofing to any shoe material using the right product for each type of upper.

Leather Shoes: Beeswax Treatment

Melt a tablespoon of pure beeswax (available at craft stores for about $3 per block) in a small container set in hot water (double-boiler method). While the wax is liquid, brush it onto clean, dry leather using an old toothbrush or soft cloth. Work the wax into the seams and stitching, which are the primary leak points.

Heat the waxed leather with a hair dryer on medium for 20 to 30 seconds per section. The heat melts the wax into the leather pores, creating a hydrophobic barrier within the material rather than just on the surface. Buff with a soft cloth after the wax cools.

This treatment lasts 2 to 3 months of regular wear and adds minimal weight or stiffness to the leather. Commercial products like Nikwax Waterproofing Wax ($10) use the same beeswax principle in a pre-melted, easier-to-apply format.

The one downside: beeswax darkens leather slightly and fills pores, which reduces the leather’s ability to breathe. For dress shoes where appearance matters more than waterproofing, use a silicone-based spray instead.

Canvas and Fabric Shoes: Silicone Spray

Spray-on silicone waterproofer (Scotchgard, Kiwi Rain and Stain, or Nikwax Fabric and Leather at $8 to $12 per can) coats fabric fibers with a thin layer of silicone polymer that repels water without sealing the fabric completely. This allows the shoe to breathe while shedding rain and puddle splashes.

Hold the can 6 to 8 inches from clean, dry shoes and spray in even passes, covering the entire upper including tongue and laces. Let dry for 1 hour. Apply a second coat for maximum protection.

Reapply every 4 to 6 weeks or after machine washing the shoes. Silicone sprays are the correct choice for sneakers, canvas shoes (Converse, Vans), and nylon athletic shoes.

Suede and Nubuck: Specialty Spray Only

Suede and nubuck have a napped (fuzzy) surface that is destroyed by wax and silicone products, which mat the fibers flat and darken the color permanently. Use only a dedicated suede waterproofer (Nikwax Nubuck and Suede Proof, Crep Protect, or Jason Markk Repel at $10 to $15) that uses a fluoropolymer formula designed to coat individual fibers without matting them.

Apply in a well-ventilated area, spray from 6 inches, and let dry for 24 hours for the first application. The protection lasts 2 to 4 weeks depending on exposure.

The Candle Wax Emergency Method

In a pinch, rub a plain wax candle (unscented, like an emergency or taper candle) across the surface of canvas shoes. Work the wax into the fabric by rubbing with your fingers, then heat with a hair dryer to melt the wax into the fibers. This provides basic waterproofing for 1 to 2 weeks and costs nothing.

This method is popular in military and outdoor communities as a field-expedient waterproofing technique. It does not work on leather (insufficient penetration) or suede (matting damage).

What About Mink Oil

Mink oil is a traditional leather conditioner that provides moderate waterproofing. However, it also softens leather excessively, weakening the structure of shoes designed with firm leather. It can also promote mold growth in humid storage conditions. Beeswax is preferred for waterproofing because it provides better water repellency with less softening effect.

The Seam Sealing Step Most People Skip

The seams and stitching holes are where water actually enters a shoe, not through the material itself. After waterproofing the upper, apply a thin bead of Shoe Goo or Aquaseal along all seams, especially where the upper meets the sole. Let cure for 24 hours. This single step provides more practical waterproofing improvement than treating the entire upper.

Bottom Line

Beeswax for leather, silicone spray for canvas and fabric, dedicated suede spray for suede. Seal the seams with Shoe Goo regardless of material. Reapply waterproofing every 1 to 3 months depending on the product and exposure level. The seam sealing step matters more than the surface treatment.